Window treatments are the last five percent of a room and they are what makes it look finished. They are also where a lot of homeowners lose a Saturday, put four wrong holes in a wall, and end up with a blind that is half an inch too wide.
Inside-mount blinds need the narrowest of three width measurements and a squareness check, because Los Angeles window openings are frequently out of square by a quarter inch or more. Outside mount needs adequate flat surface and a decision about overlap for light control. Shutters need a depth check. Motorised shades need a power plan before you order. We measure every opening, record it, and tell you what to order - or we order it for you.
Blind and rod brackets carry real load, especially with heavy blackout fabric, wide spans, or a curtain someone pulls on daily. We fasten into window framing, into the header, or into blocking and appropriate rated anchors where framing is not available. A curtain rod dropping out of drywall a month later, with a chunk of the wall attached, is the single most common thing we get called out to fix.
West and south-facing rooms want solar shades with a specified openness factor, or a dual roller with a solar and a blackout layer, because the real problem here is heat gain, not privacy. Bedrooms want blackout with side channels or a generous outside mount - a blackout roller with a one inch gap either side is not blackout. Bathrooms and kitchens want faux wood or aluminium rather than real wood, which warps. Sliding doors want vertical blinds, panel tracks or a wide roller rather than something that will get knocked off the track. Homes with young children want cordless or motorised, which is now the industry standard for exactly that reason.
Rods mounted high and wide make a window look larger and a ceiling look taller - hardware set at the top of the casing does the opposite. We hang rods at the right height for the drop you have, level across the run, with centre supports on long spans so the rod does not sag. We also hem or adjust length where a panel is off, and install ceiling tracks and recessed pockets.
Whole-house installs are a single visit. Bring us the product or ask us to specify it.
Yes, and we strongly recommend it. Measuring is the step that goes wrong, and a mis-ordered custom shade is usually non-returnable. We measure, give you a written schedule of sizes and mount types by opening, and you order with confidence.
Not reliably, and not with heavy panels. We anchor into window framing or headers wherever possible, and install blocking or heavy-duty rated anchors when there is no framing where the bracket has to land. That is why our rods stay up.
A solar shade with a low openness factor, typically 3 to 5 percent, or a dual roller so you can have solar during the day and blackout at night. It cuts a meaningful amount of heat gain while keeping the view, which a blackout roller does not.
Yes - battery, hardwired and solar-charged systems, including pairing with hubs and voice assistants. If you want hardwired, plan it before ordering because we may need to run power to the head rail, which is much easier before other finishes go in.
Standard blind or shade installation typically runs $45 to $85 per opening with a minimum visit charge. Shutters, motorised systems, wide spans and openings needing blocking cost more. A whole-house install is quoted as one visit and works out cheaper per window.
